Thursday, November 14, 2013

El Caribe: St. John's, Antigua

St. John's, Antigua
November 6, 2013
17* 08' N

I liked Antigua right from the start.  A low fog carpeted the low lying parts of the island as we were sailing into the harbor.

We disembarked as soon as we could.  A steel band greeted us as we walked into the city of St. John's.  Earlier, we'd a very nice couple from Massachusetts--Jean and Norman--who joined us on an island tour.  Unlike or driver from the day before who'd used the roads of St. Thomas as his personal racetrack, this driver was courteous and kind and took his time.

We were in a small bit of England with left hand drive and currency that reflected loyalty to the Queen.

Antigua is only 90 sq. miles and there's really only one , rather narrow, circle road.  We passed Candy-colored villages of tiny homes painted pastel pinks, yellow, blues, purples and greens.  Of in the distance, a higher elevations with sea views, were the homes of wealthy expats who wintered on the island.  One property, we were told, was on the market for $32,000,000.

We passed tiny inlets that wound around a craggy, corrugated volcanic coast.  Tucked away in these inlets and crags were 365 beaches--one for every day of the year.

Columbus landed here in 1493--his second voyage to the New World.  It's been popular ever since.

Antigua has extended periods of wet and dry.  By this time of the year island was green, beautiful and tranquil.  We saw abundant crops of banana, papaya, mango, plantains, breadfruit and pineapple.  The latter was small and sweet and takes a full 18 months to grow.

Donkeys, some wild, sheep and goats as well as cows and chickens grazed small farms.

Antigua dripped with atmosphere.

After we'd pretty much circled the island with the driver's running narrative of things Antiguan, he dropped a large group of us off at Turner's Beach for the remainder of the afternoon.  This was no hardship on an early November afternoon when the sun was still high in the sky and summer warm. The beach was a picture-perfect crescent of white sand-  But curiosity beckoned.  There was a tiny peninsula and beyond it another beach.  Knowing that most people will walk as little as possible, I walked the narrow trail across the point and found another strip of similar beach almost free of people.  For three hours I enjoyed this small treasure, the gentle lap of a calm sea and a hot Caribbean sun.

Back on the boat we sat on our balcony.  I commented to Glenda how much Antigua reminded me of Easter Island.  In the distance I could see the craggy, volcanic spine of mountains, slopes gently climbing to their low summits.  Antigua is volcanic in origin.  On both islands there is rich, fertile soil and always, far of in the distance, small volcanoes rose above the black, lava strewn surface.

It felt good to be back in a place similar to a place I´d so enjoyed.

By 4:15 we slipped out of the harbor.  Unlike the tumult of St.Thomas, this island beckoned for a much longer return visit.

I´d like to linger in the small villages, chat with locals, hike some of the trails the island has to offer, discover some of the 365 beaches and eat food local to the island.

But the Norwegian Dawn would not wait.  We had 300 miles to travel.

By the next morning we would be in Barbados.

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