Seville, Spain
October 10, 2014
Latitude 37°22' N
It's amazing how simply crossing a river, when that river separates two countries, within seconds brings the traveler into a new culture, with a different history, different traditions and different sets of values.
Thus it was that I left Faro, Portugal on the afternoon of October 8th and bussed a mere three hours to the exquisite city of Seville--the first in a triad of Moorish towns I'd visit before heading to Madrid.
For three days I wandered this lovely city on the banks of one of Spain's longest rivers, the Guadalquivir. My first day was sunny and hot and I took advantage of it to circle the city on the Hop-On, Hop-Off tourist bus, getting off periodically to sit in peaceful, tree-fringed plazas or walk the narrow cobble stoned streets of the old city. By early afternoon everything was bathed in brilliant Andalusian sunlight. How lucky I was to view the city's cathedral as this light drenched the ochre stones that masons had used to build this more-than-impressive church.
By late afternoon I took shelter in the city's elegant Luisa Maria Park. Horse drawn carriages clip-clopped down the leafy boulevards flanked by a European variety of maple, just turning to autumnal brown on this early October afternoon.
Friday was the beginning of the long American Columbus Day weekend, but it was also a national holiday for Spaniards, too. They honored the man and his accomplishments just as we did. It was a perfect opportunity to step inside the cathedral, view his tomb and enjoy the world´s largest Gothic Cathedral as well as the world's third largest. Of all the splendors I saw in Seville--and there were many--this stands out at the best.
Just the statistics alone were staggering.
Supporting columns, round as redwoods, rose 138 feet to ceilings gilded and ornate.
From official start to official finish, it took a monumental 527 years to complete, yet the bulk of the work was done between 1401 to 1528.
Behind a massive golden grill was the intricately designed altar--the life´s work of sculptor Pieter Dancort who never lived long enough to see its completion.. The altar was a sea of gilt with over 1,000 biblical figures carved in detail. Known as the Capilla Mayor, it's the biggest of its kind in the world.
The cathedral was built on the former sit of a mosque to show the city's enormous wealth. Legend has it that the brainchild behind the Cathedral said ¨Let's constructed a church so large, future generation will think we were mad.¨
Well, they succeeded.
At 450 feet long and 330 feet wide, with 15 doors and 80 separate chapels, it's a monument that staggers the imagination. It was so big that it was only possible to photograph small sections of it.
The steeple is all that remains of a mosque that stood on its site prior to the Reconquest of Spain. The minaret had been designed with 32 zigzagging ramps--wide enough for a horse to navigate.
But on this day it was just tourists who slogged to the top. Their reward: a 360 degree view of the city, including the Alcazar, various 15th Century monasteries and a kaleidoscope of Medieval buildings below.
Inside, though, despite the ornate chapel, silver altars and gold covered angels; despite the pantheon of carved saints, prophets, and fathers of the church; despite jaw dropping artistic magnificence was the tomb of Christopher Columbus.
Well, part of his bones at least. The other portion is still in Santo Domingo in the Dominican Republic. What a perfect way to spend this 1st day of the long Columbus Day weekend.
The mausoleum was easily 15 feet high--the tomb itself carried on the backs of four giant bronze figures. Overhead, larger-than-life was a painting of St Christopher.
This was just the icing on the delicious cake that was Seville. I was already ready to return for Holy Week. It's here in Seville that the week takes on his most dramatic feel.
Another time!
October 10, 2014
Latitude 37°22' N
It's amazing how simply crossing a river, when that river separates two countries, within seconds brings the traveler into a new culture, with a different history, different traditions and different sets of values.
Thus it was that I left Faro, Portugal on the afternoon of October 8th and bussed a mere three hours to the exquisite city of Seville--the first in a triad of Moorish towns I'd visit before heading to Madrid.
For three days I wandered this lovely city on the banks of one of Spain's longest rivers, the Guadalquivir. My first day was sunny and hot and I took advantage of it to circle the city on the Hop-On, Hop-Off tourist bus, getting off periodically to sit in peaceful, tree-fringed plazas or walk the narrow cobble stoned streets of the old city. By early afternoon everything was bathed in brilliant Andalusian sunlight. How lucky I was to view the city's cathedral as this light drenched the ochre stones that masons had used to build this more-than-impressive church.
Just the statistics alone were staggering.
Supporting columns, round as redwoods, rose 138 feet to ceilings gilded and ornate.
From official start to official finish, it took a monumental 527 years to complete, yet the bulk of the work was done between 1401 to 1528.
Behind a massive golden grill was the intricately designed altar--the life´s work of sculptor Pieter Dancort who never lived long enough to see its completion.. The altar was a sea of gilt with over 1,000 biblical figures carved in detail. Known as the Capilla Mayor, it's the biggest of its kind in the world.
Well, they succeeded.
At 450 feet long and 330 feet wide, with 15 doors and 80 separate chapels, it's a monument that staggers the imagination. It was so big that it was only possible to photograph small sections of it.
The steeple is all that remains of a mosque that stood on its site prior to the Reconquest of Spain. The minaret had been designed with 32 zigzagging ramps--wide enough for a horse to navigate.
But on this day it was just tourists who slogged to the top. Their reward: a 360 degree view of the city, including the Alcazar, various 15th Century monasteries and a kaleidoscope of Medieval buildings below.
Inside, though, despite the ornate chapel, silver altars and gold covered angels; despite the pantheon of carved saints, prophets, and fathers of the church; despite jaw dropping artistic magnificence was the tomb of Christopher Columbus.
Well, part of his bones at least. The other portion is still in Santo Domingo in the Dominican Republic. What a perfect way to spend this 1st day of the long Columbus Day weekend.
The mausoleum was easily 15 feet high--the tomb itself carried on the backs of four giant bronze figures. Overhead, larger-than-life was a painting of St Christopher.
This was just the icing on the delicious cake that was Seville. I was already ready to return for Holy Week. It's here in Seville that the week takes on his most dramatic feel.
Another time!
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