Kathmandu, Nepal
November 11, 2012
Altitude: 4,445'
In the end, how do I compress into mere words the almost mystical, almost sacred experience I had in the Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan. Even those words...Himalayan Kingdom...evoke a sense of mystery.
In the end, how does one express the power of seeing the highest Himalayan peaks and epic vistas while driving over 10,000' mountain passes or of seeing forests carpeted in rhododendrons.
In the end, how does one tell of winding country lanes, driving through long passages of willows at full peak autumn color, all set against the lustrous blue, brilliant high altitude sky. Or of clean and clear vallyes--one aftr another--all tucked away between igh Himalayan peaks with rivers--wild and clean--running through them.
In the end, how can I tell you of the magical power of prayer flags blowing in the wind, of prayer wheels at the base of mountain streams, of chortens and stupas dotting the landscape and of temples hundreds and hundreds of years old.
In the end, it is still difficult to express the joy of sharing a road with herds of cows, or seeing groups of yaks and black-necked cranes.
In the end, I will always remember the color--of bright red, yellow, green and blue flags, of fields of red barley, yellow mustard and roofs layered with red, red chillies and of long, white strings of yak cheese drying in the warm autumn sun.
In the end I will remember always the legions of red-robed monks walking to temples, whose temples are full of gold Buddhas and silver Buddhas and red and black prayer wheels.
In the end, we travelled from the urban west to the less inhabited center of the country, travelling a total of 1,830 miles, over bumpy roads that, at times, scared me to no end. Up and down serpentine roads that zigzagged up and down high, high mountain passes.
In the end there is no doubt that it was an expensive trip. Bhutan does not want what has happened in Thailand and Nepal where legions of backpackers have altered the very culture of the country. Tourism is government controlled and I paid $290.00 for the privilege of visiting it. But..to be fair..for that money I had superb hotels, fabulous meals three times a day and a car and driver at my disposal 24 hours a day.
In the end I could never keep track of the complexity of Bhutanese Buddhism, what with its Buddha, and Second Buddha, its five Dhyana Buddhas, its Past, Present and Future Buddhas let alone the eight manifestations of the Buddhas, the Bodhisattvas, its monks, and gurus and magicians and consorts and flying tigers and subdued demons and cannibal demonesses or the multiple protector deities that oversaw each valley and home. It was totally baffling, but totally enchanting.
In the end I think all my sins are cleansed. "If you walk around this temple 108 times," Yesehy would tell me once, "All your sins will be cleansed." Another time he suggested I wear a 100 pound coat of mail and walk around the temple three times. That was just too much work and I couldn't imagine my knees after that. Everything seemed like too much work until one day we came to a lovely 17th century covered bridge. "If you walk across this bridge all you sins will be cleansed," he told. Finally! Something I was willing to do. So I did just that, and I walked back, so I guess all my sins are cleansed twice.
In the end it was hard to leave Bhutan. I'd developed a real fondness for the people and the diversity of the landscape. There was a surprise around every corner.
In the end it was hard to leave the cocoon of five star hotels, daily buffets and a car and driver. Poor me. I'd have to duke it out alone from now on.
In the end Bhutan was rare and unusual, clean and unpolluted, full of warm and open people. It was destination very far away and seemingly like some lost Shangrila.
In the end, Bhutan ranks very high on the list of world marvels.
In the end, though, I'm not sure I'd return. It was wonderful, but very expensive and, as Robert Frost wrote, "I have miles to go before I sleep." There are heaps of other places left to see and only so much time to do it. But I did make a promise to my dear friend, Glenda. And I am a man of word, so perhaps we'll go there together in the next few years.
Bhutan! In the end, it was amazing!
November 11, 2012
Altitude: 4,445'
In the end, how do I compress into mere words the almost mystical, almost sacred experience I had in the Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan. Even those words...Himalayan Kingdom...evoke a sense of mystery.
In the end, how does one express the power of seeing the highest Himalayan peaks and epic vistas while driving over 10,000' mountain passes or of seeing forests carpeted in rhododendrons.
 |
| Mt.Everest on the flight from Kathmandu to Paro |
In the end, how does one tell of winding country lanes, driving through long passages of willows at full peak autumn color, all set against the lustrous blue, brilliant high altitude sky. Or of clean and clear vallyes--one aftr another--all tucked away between igh Himalayan peaks with rivers--wild and clean--running through them.
In the end, how can I tell you of the magical power of prayer flags blowing in the wind, of prayer wheels at the base of mountain streams, of chortens and stupas dotting the landscape and of temples hundreds and hundreds of years old.
In the end, it is still difficult to express the joy of sharing a road with herds of cows, or seeing groups of yaks and black-necked cranes.
In the end, I will always remember the color--of bright red, yellow, green and blue flags, of fields of red barley, yellow mustard and roofs layered with red, red chillies and of long, white strings of yak cheese drying in the warm autumn sun.
In the end I will remember always the legions of red-robed monks walking to temples, whose temples are full of gold Buddhas and silver Buddhas and red and black prayer wheels.
In the end, we travelled from the urban west to the less inhabited center of the country, travelling a total of 1,830 miles, over bumpy roads that, at times, scared me to no end. Up and down serpentine roads that zigzagged up and down high, high mountain passes.
In the end there is no doubt that it was an expensive trip. Bhutan does not want what has happened in Thailand and Nepal where legions of backpackers have altered the very culture of the country. Tourism is government controlled and I paid $290.00 for the privilege of visiting it. But..to be fair..for that money I had superb hotels, fabulous meals three times a day and a car and driver at my disposal 24 hours a day.
In the end I could never keep track of the complexity of Bhutanese Buddhism, what with its Buddha, and Second Buddha, its five Dhyana Buddhas, its Past, Present and Future Buddhas let alone the eight manifestations of the Buddhas, the Bodhisattvas, its monks, and gurus and magicians and consorts and flying tigers and subdued demons and cannibal demonesses or the multiple protector deities that oversaw each valley and home. It was totally baffling, but totally enchanting.
In the end I think all my sins are cleansed. "If you walk around this temple 108 times," Yesehy would tell me once, "All your sins will be cleansed." Another time he suggested I wear a 100 pound coat of mail and walk around the temple three times. That was just too much work and I couldn't imagine my knees after that. Everything seemed like too much work until one day we came to a lovely 17th century covered bridge. "If you walk across this bridge all you sins will be cleansed," he told. Finally! Something I was willing to do. So I did just that, and I walked back, so I guess all my sins are cleansed twice.
In the end it was hard to leave Bhutan. I'd developed a real fondness for the people and the diversity of the landscape. There was a surprise around every corner.
In the end it was hard to leave the cocoon of five star hotels, daily buffets and a car and driver. Poor me. I'd have to duke it out alone from now on.
In the end Bhutan was rare and unusual, clean and unpolluted, full of warm and open people. It was destination very far away and seemingly like some lost Shangrila.
In the end, Bhutan ranks very high on the list of world marvels.
In the end, though, I'm not sure I'd return. It was wonderful, but very expensive and, as Robert Frost wrote, "I have miles to go before I sleep." There are heaps of other places left to see and only so much time to do it. But I did make a promise to my dear friend, Glenda. And I am a man of word, so perhaps we'll go there together in the next few years.
Bhutan! In the end, it was amazing!
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