Teotihuacan and the First Day of Spring!

March 27, 2011
Mexico City, Mexico

The Pyramid to the Sun, at the great Aztec city of Teotihucan, 50 miles north of Mexico City, is the third largest pyramid in the world, and on the first day of spring it's overrun by thousands of New Agers, all dressed in white, who climb the pyramid to absorb the Sun's energy from the summit.

But this year, March 20th, 2011, the first day of spring was not only on a Sunday when it's free for nationals, but the day before a national holiday. (If spring arrived on a Tuesday, as it did four years ago when I first experienced the Vernal Equinox here, about 20,000 people would show up.) This year, though, because of the long weekend, it's estimated that 800,000 people came.

800,000!

That's just 200,000 people short of a million.

I just love the excesses of Mexico City. And so it was that three of the 800,000 were me, and my dear friends Glenda from NY and Gerardo from Mexico City, who's been my guide more than once for the best this city has to offer. We got a late start--not a good thing.

Our first indication that this was not a normal Sunday was the one hour wait for a bus then a two hour bus ride to the site. Normally this should take less than hour, but traffic was thick. The bus let us off at least half a mile from the site, which meant we walked the rest of the way. This was all part of the fun energy, as all sorts of vendors lined the road. Shamans, too, practicing their craft, were available for a sprititual cleaning. All three of us paid ten pesos for this.

Our goal was to climb the pyramid and be part of the Spring celebration. I'm glad we didn't have too many other goals, as the line was two hours long. It snaked along two sides of the pyramid, climbed to the first level, then snaked through another seven lines. Glenda was only able to get to the first level. She'd just gotten to Mexico City and she finally met her match with the altitude--500 feet higher than the capital.

But Gerardo and I finished. We raised our arms to the sun and picked up its special energy in this very special place on this very special day. We had out photos taken, and lived in the moment of this incredible day.

Later, we met Glenda on the first level. She was at least on the pyramid and that was enough for her.

But that was the end of our pyramid climbing. Officials were moving people out and we were unable to get to the Pyramid of the Moon.

On our way off the site, we stopped in the adjoning town, San Juan de Teotihucan, who holds its annual fair during these early Spring days. We ate bad Mexican carnival food--deep fried bananas smothered in condensed milk and chocolate sauce, and cotton candy.
It was full night when we arrived back in Coyoacan--dirty, hot, dehydrated, but full of the fun and energy that only can happen on the first day of Spring at Teotihucan!

It was a great day!